This may not be the best photograph i have taken, but it means a lot to me. It was my first photograph of a wild cat and it was a Jaguar. Some might think it odd that this was my first wild cat as this particular feline is famed for its elusiveness, yet it really was my first wild cat. It was during a rich golden yellow sunrise, early one day on the Manu Rio as our group was returning back from the Manu National Park Reserve Zone with Bonanza Tours. We had just experienced a remarkable five day trip, an adventure where we had seen just about everything I had dreamt of seeing, except the elusive Jaguar. All of us were all lazily looking out of the traditional canoe at the jungle banks whilst the crew and Lordes Huamani Choquepuma studied the river banks. The canoe carried on snaking down the fast flowing river, in and out of the semi submerged trees and skirting white sandbanks. Then suddenly Lordes shouted and pointed to the opposite bank where, sunning itself on a grassy ledge in front of the thick folliage, was the Jaguar. The driver quikily cut the engine, swung the boat around and we edged back upstream whilst all of us passengers were now transfixed by this sleepy animal. We enjoyed a good ten minutes edging closer to it, watching it yawn and preen before he swaggered off into the undergrowth. A unique, memorable experience.
Tiger Mother, Ranthambore NP, Rajasthan, India 2015
I had seen and photographed several tigers before I got this picture, but this one was special. We had heard from the guide in our jeep, that during the night, just next to the biggest lake in this part of the Ranthambore National Park, that the resident female tiger had made a kill of a large antelope. Consequently I knew that her and her three cubs would feed all night, probably in the dense reeds around the lake and by the time we arrived the next morning, there was a good chance she and her cubs would eventually emerge. They of course would need to drink. Sure enough, with the mist gently resting on the lake’s surface we quietly arrived and took up position. We did not have to wait long and the mother was the first to emerge. She exhibited no caution as she brazenly sauntered into the grassy area next to the water and lay down almost spitting distance from my jeep. This was closer than I ever thought was possible to get to this majestic animal and the pictures I was able to take were immensely gratifying. I felt so lucky after we had seen the family for some thirty minutes before they returned to their meal in the thick reeds. Amazingly the following day’s experience was even better.
Bomdilla Buddhist Festival, Arunachal Pradesh, NE India 2013
On my visits to Tibet I have unfortunately missed the Skeleton Dance at many festivals. So when I was in Tawang and heard that in the town of Bomdilla just one day’s drive away, there would be holding a festival which included this dance, I just left. Tawang was scenic with a famous monastery and Bomdilla is just a mountain top town built at a major road inter section with little to recommend it. However this annual festival drew around 5,000 pilgrims from the surrounding area and surprisingly just one foreigner, me. The full five days were fascinating, the crowd ultra friendly and the organiser was quick to take me under his wing, explain the dances and other performances, whilst ensuring I had a good vantage point from where to view the exploding cake. The Skeleton Dance did not disappoint, but when I got home, I decided that I preferred this photo of a character in one of the other religious dances.
The Giant Hornbill, Nameri National Park, Assam, NE India 2015
There can be few birds as impressive as the Giant Hornbill in flight. It is vast and strangely reminds me of a flying battleship as it cruises around the treetops with its odd shaped horn. My first sighting was certainly a “wow” moment. I still remember my astonishment as I heard the noise of its beating wings a good 70-80 meters away. I had managed fleeting glances of the Giant Hornbill in both the Northeast of India and Sri Lanka, but the best sightings were (I was told) in Eastern Assam at the Nameri National Park. I had planned my visit to coincide with the nesting behaviour of the species. Each pair return to the same nests each year and carry out some seasonal repairs before laying eggs. This allows you to sit quietly and watch these immense birds flying back and forward, sharing the duties and getting the nest ready. Locating a nest is getting more and more difficult. These birds are endangered and despite protection still face the twin threats of poaching and habitat encroachment. However once seen, they are never forgotten.
Red & Green Macaws at Tambo Blanquillo Clay-lick, Manu NP, Amazon, Peru 2014
People associate Manu National Park in Peru with its Jaguars and Giant Otters. It is certainly one of the best (if not the best) place in South America to see these animals. However these are not the only wildlife events which can be witnessed here. In my three visits I have seen tapirs, pumas, howler monkeys, spider monkeys, many toucans, army ants, all manner of extraordinary sized insects and amazingly coloured birds. Yet on my last visit my goal was to see a famous clay lick at Tambo Blanquillo which is visited daily by thousands of Blue Headed Parrots and then by hundreds of large Red and Green Macaws. This experience did not disappoint and captivated me for a good three hours. These birds gather here to lick the clay and benefit from its essential minerals and salts. Every so often the group on the clay get spooked and fly off screeching in an enormous red and blue cloud. Truly magnificent.
Buddhist Monpa Monks, Tawang Monastery, Arunachal Pradesh, India 2013
In the far north east of Arunachal Pradesh on the border with Tibet, Tawang is the largest Tibetan monastery outside of Lhasa. I was here just after seven one morning and saw the youngest monks filing out of their school block and into the main quadrant to get their breakfast. The food had been prepared in the kitchens by some older monks. This meal was then ladled out of a large caldron onto the metal plates clutched by the younger robe clad monks. Once breakfast was demolished, the young monks all filed away with their mentors back to their accommodation. Two though remained in the early morning light and were playing a sort of game which resembled scissors, rock and paper - just using their feet. This illustrated to me that these children were still kids and it was watch to see their youthful exuberance. I hope I captured this moment in the early morning sunlight.
Dancing Nagas at the Hornbill Festival, Nagaland 2014
Folk songs and dances are essential ingredients of the traditional Naga culture. Naga folk songs are both romantic and historical, with songs narrating entire stories of famous ancestors and incidents. Seasonal songs describe activities done in a particular agricultural cycle. Folk dances of the tribes are mostly performed in groups in synchronised fashion, by both men and women, depending on the type of dance. Dances are usually performed at festivals and religious occasions. War dances are performed mostly by men and are athletic and martial in style. All dances are accompanied by songs and war cries by the dancers. Indigenous musical instruments made and used by the people are bamboo mouth organs, cup violins, bamboo flutes, drums made of cattle skin, and log drums. Nothing is written down and everything is handed down orally.
Dallol, Danakill Depression, NE Ethiopia 2014
Dallol is one of the most unusual places I have visited. Great yellow sulphur ponds, bubbling geysers, foul smells and huge salt hills, all in the middle of the Danakill Depression - the hottest place on earth. There are no humans in this area, just salt pans, these few sulphurous oddities and small volcanoes dotting the landscape. Salt is mined in this area and transported in huge slabs on the back of camels in some of the longest camel trains in the world. Occasionally you come across these camel trains, trailing away into the mirages and herded by hardy traders on the way to Mekele’s market, just over 100km west. But its to these strange formations that mind returns. My guide said, “be careful, don't fall into one of these ponds as you will loose your skin in seconds!” I hope this shot captures the science fiction nature of this landscape.
Jumping Naga Warrior, Hornbill Festival, Kohima, Nagaland 2014
The colour, the outfits and the obvious delight of the tribes people who perform in Kohima make the Hornbill Festival the perfect introduction to Naga culture. Celebrated over the first ten days of December every year, the first few days can be over run with visitors, many of whom are government dignitaries. Once that is over with, the festival returns to its format of dances, re-enactments, and songs which are performed twice a day by each of the 17 tribes. The rest of the time is spent socialising, tasting tribal food, hospitality and rice beer in a recreated traditional village composed of several Morungs. Traditionally the Morung or youth dormitory is used to be an essential part of Naga life. Apart from the family, a person's time living in the Morung was the most important part of their education and acculturation. The Morungs were grand buildings and at this festival each tribe has constructed one to showcase their culture. Visitors can enter, eat and converse with the tribes many of whom speak English. Once this has been experienced, you can then embark on a more adventurous trip around the state learning about each individual tribe, staying with them and experiencing the local festivals. I hope this photograph captures the exuberance of the performers.
Dusty Elephants enjoying a Waterhole, Etosha NP, Namibia 2014
Another waterhole and another group of Etosha’s dirty, dusty and thirsty elephants. I was also waiting at this waterhole enjoying watching two male elephants luxuriously lounge about in particularly muddy section, when another male emerged from the arid landscape. He sauntered up to the duo and they seemed to be sizing each other up, before they all plunged their trunks into the waterhole. From my vantage point in the car, this looked almost synchronised and almost symmetrical, and offered the chance of an unusual photograph. They stood facing each other for a while, not flinching and then the one which had arrived, just moved off. I was very happy with this picture.
A Shepherd, Banswara, Rajasthan, India 2015
Banswara is a small village in a rather remote part of Western Rajasthan. If tourists do visit this area, it is to see watch the Leopards who live in the rocky hills just outside the town. In Banswara the local Maharaja has started a business taking tourists out to this rocky outcrop in the hope of seeing the Leopards. They have also spent time educating the local shepherds in conservation, and now these shepherds do not kill leopards or for that matter the rare locals hyenas to protect their flocks of goats. These shepherds now keep watch on all these animals, ensuring poachers and people from outside the area do not harm them. Consequently the leopard population is now increasing, tourists are visiting and the whole community is benefitting. I was rather taken with these shepherds, protecting not only their goats but the local leopards and the hyenas. Traditionally wearing coloured turbans and red outfits, they immaculately stand out in the arid dry environment of Banswara as they keep watch.
Solitary Male Lion, Etosha NP, Namibia 2014
After a week’s safari in Etosha many people would conclude that I should have experienced my fill of this dusty national park. However, I was still keen to see a leopard and spent my last few hours lingering around a remote waterhole just north of the park’s entrance, which was renowned for spotting these illusive animals. Of course when a solitary male lion appeared, that put pay to spotting that leopard. Nevertheless this male lion was glorious. Despite his apparent loneliness he just sat down under the shade of a tree close to the waterhole and just looked at me with those expressionless yellow eyes. He certainly appeared to be less battered and bruised than many others I had come across in Africa. I soon had to leave as the sun was setting and recall him hardly flinching as I started the car and slowly headed off. I caught one last glance in the rear view mirror as I left and noticed him sitting like a king surveying his territory and apparently at peace with the world.
Tiger Cubs, Ranthambore National Park, Rajasthan, India 2015
It always been a dream of mine to watch Tigers at play in the wild. I must admit, that I never thought this would happen, but it did, in January 2015 on two misty mornings in Ranthambore National Park by a large lake. It was a joy to watch these two adolescent brothers play fight. At times it appeared very aggressive, as both bared their impressive teeth and then exposed their quite frightening claws. I like this picture, as the light was great plus it shows these weapons whilst illustrating the bond between these two brothers. It was an astonishing sighting that has gone down in the folklore of the park. I have even met guides in India who have shown videos telling their tourists that they were present, only for them to concede that this was not the case when I have produced my photographs.
Chachapoyan Sarcophagi, San Geronimo, Chachapoyas North Peru 2014
he Chachapoyan people were known as the “Warriors of the Clouds” and lived in the Amazonas area of NE Peru. These people had a unique, stunning culture with huge cities and fortresses located on mountains over 3000m high. Ruins are all thats left as the empire was over run first by the Incas and then by the Conquistadors. However modern archaeology is starting to uncover what this was one of the continent’s leading civilisations and two of my friends are at the forefront of current research. Keith Muscat and Adriana Van Hagen have both inspired my huge interest in this culture and one that is only rivalled by my interest in the Nagas of Asia. So it was with great interest that I learned of a recent discovery of some well preserved Sarcophagi in San Geronimo in just 2013 by a drone - of all things! The trek to see these Sarcophagi (where the Chachas interned their mummified remains) was difficult and hair raising. To glimpse these Sarcophagi I had to climb up the mountainside over 2500m to a ledge. Here a rickety wooden platform that swayed above a drop of hundreds of meters was the only way to view these ghostly figures and human skulls. I was too petrified to look down, but the look upwards was amazing and I took this shot one handed as I held on for grim death as this makeshift contraption swayed about in the winds.
Apatani Lady, Ziro Valley, Arunachal Pradesh, NE India 2015
The Apatani people are famed for their beautiful rice paddies and their unique culture. It is solely down to their talents as great agriculturalists that the Ziro Valley became the ‘bread basket of Arunachal Pradesh”. Yet much of the agricultural work is now done by the Apatani women and it is the older generation that have kept alive these rice paddy skills. This is therefore the best place to meet the older generation who still wear the traditional clothing and who sport the unusual facial tattoos and face plugs. The men traditionally tie their hair in a bun just above the forehead and this is held in place by large hairpins (these days it can be knitting needles). They also sport a facial tattoo just under the lip in a straight line that descends down the chin sometimes in a sort of triangle. In the case of the women these tattoos start on the forehead and go down over the tip of the nose, crossing over the mouth finishing at the chin. They also have two large (in some cases as much as 2 inches in diameter) black nose plugs inserted into each nostril. These pegs are made from bamboo and inserted at a young age and then replaced slowly by bigger ones as the woman ages. Originally this was considered a sign of beauty and the bigger the plug, the more beautiful the woman. Since this practice has been outlawed (in the 1970s) one is unlikely to encounter anyone under 50 years with the plugs.
Night time arrival of an elephant herd at a waterhole, Kasane, Botswana 2014
The Senyati Safari Camp about 20kms outside of Kasane and just10kms before the Zimbabwean border is one of my favourite camp grounds in Africa. It is comfortable and affordable with individual campsite facilities such as en suite toilet, a private kitchen plus a fire. It also has a good space of sand where you can comfortably pitch your tent. What makes it truly special is the waterhole just 100 yards from the first tent sites overlooked by the campground bar on stilts. Underneath this bar is an entrance to a tunnel which extends right out to the waterhole ending in a perfectly concealed hide at ground level. At night troop after troop of Elephants would run incredibly quietly past the tents (disconcertingly close) to this waterhole gathering underneath a full moon offering great photo opportunities from the hide. This picture shows a moving female passing in front of my lens as the shutter was slowly released. The blurred movement of the animal lends the picture an unusual atmosphere.
Marvellous Spatuletail Hummingbird, Leymebamba, Amazonas, Peru 2010
This extraordinary bird was instrumental in cultivating my love of wildlife photography. The male has an incredible four tails (the middle two in this shot are close together) two of which have coloured discs on the end. It appears that these tails and discs are only used in an elaborate courtship dance. This Hummingbird is endemic to just a few valleys in the Amazonas region along the river banks of the beautiful Rio Utecamba in Peru. Experts estimate there to be just over 100 of this species left and spotting them is notoriously difficult. Photographing them is even more so. When I was in Leymebamba five years ago, I spent three days trying to achieve this goal. I has joined there by Keith Muscat an expert on local ChaCha culture. He had on many occasions tried to photograph this bird, but with no success. He was amused by in my Bolivian good luck charm which I purchased at the witches market in La Paz, to bring me luck with my photography. During these bird watching days, the charm worked and I spotted this hummingbird twice and took about six decent pictures, this one being the best. Keith was unluckily in the toilet each time the Spatuletail arrived during those three days. After he had missed the second opportunity, he offered me $100 for the Bolivian charm.
African Fish Eagle, Okavango Panhandle, Botswana 2014
I was in a boat on the Panhandle hoping to photograph the Pels Fishing Owl when the guide noticed a beautiful African Fish Eagle on top of a tree preparing to fly. Luckily, I was in a good position and it flew straight at me before veering around in the centre of the river and majestically swooping to retrieve a fish. I was very happy with this shot just seconds before it grabbed the fish as it illustrates the eagle’s perfect grabbing technique. This most extraordinary experience was only enhanced by the astonishing noise of rushing wind that accompanied the swoop and grab. The African Fish Eagle is one of the most distinctive birds you can find in Southern Africa with a memorable call that can sound across the wetlands like no other bird noise.
White Fronted Bee-eaters, Okavango Panhandle, Botswana 2014
I spotted this group of bee-eaters on a river trip along the Panhandle of the Okavango Delta. They congregate on small branches and over hanging thick grasses. These vantage points allow them to watch over their congested nesting sites which are burrowed into the mud of the river banks. These brilliantly coloured birds are gregarious and sociable and often form photogenic lines along these branches. In this case, one individual moved out of synchronisation and this is what I like about the shot. They often share housing and living space with Pied Kingfishers, which have black and white plumage. I also understand that living in close proximity with other species can also benefit the group, as there are then many eyes watching the burrows. This was clearly illustrated later that day when I witnessed a large Water Monitor attempting to take chicks from one such burrow only to suffer an aggressive Kingfisher bombardment.
Southern Yellow Billed Hornbill, Near Francistown, Botswana 2014
I was up early one morning whilst camping not far from a waterhole. As I walked around the campsite looking at the waterhole hoping to see some large game, I disturbed a group of Yellow Billed Hornbills, who were sheltering out of the wind. These birds are actually fairly common in this part of the world and the locals refer to them as “flying bananas”. As I got closer I saw they were chasing a few large insects and as I pulled out my camera one caught one right in front of me. Then, just like the Toucans of South America, it tossed it in the air and swallowed it head first. Luckily I got that sequence.