Irta’ale means “smoking volcano” in the local language of the Afar region. Strangely it’s only 613m high and has been home to one of of two oldest lava lakes in the world (formed in 1906). It is also located in one of the most inhospitable areas in the world. The Danakill Depression is reputedly the hottest place on earth and is also home to some weird sulphurous geysers and huge salt pans. The Afar people live here and have a reputation for hostility, however I encountered none of this. However this extreme place is dangerous having claimed the lives of eight foreigners since 2012. Nevertheless, nothing prepares you for the uniqueness of this area and Irta’ale. The lava lake is known as the “Gateway to Hell” by the Afar and minor eruptions (regular since 1967) occur every twelve minutes or so as caught in this picture. There is no fence on the rim, visitors just use their wits to avoid the occasional plume of lava. I slept on this rim and saw this view under the moon at night before climbing down the next morning after witnessing the sunrise.